It was a cold, drizzly afternoon in downtown New York City
The new Freedom Tower, built to replace the ill-fated World Trade Center loomed through the mist. The last time I was here, a few years ago, it was still Ground Zero, a vast hole in the ground gradually turning into a building site. Now there are two new memorials, stark, grey, chilling and powerful, great, cavernous pits with waterfalls and the 9/11 victims' names inscribed around them.
It was reminiscent of the Flight 93 Memorial in a field in Pennsylvania which I visited a couple of years ago. Nearby, the new transport hub looks like some bizarre bird poised to land.
After the attacks, historic St Paul's chapel was a base for firefighters and other helpers.
When I was last there, the box pews were still in place but now they've been removed, presumably because of all the visitors. Although the one where George Washington sat in very different times is still there.
Now it's part museum
Police from all over the world sent badges and other tokens,
Among them what looked like a a British policewoman's hat.
Tables are covered in memorabilia. The photos, the messages.
It's all deeply moving and still overwhelmingly sad.
One of the old pews is against a wall. They've kept it to show the scuff marks left by exhausted firemen who lay down in their boots to catch some sleep.